Automated Valve FAQs


Most likely the valve stem or actuator coupling is broken.

The electric actuator limit switches or the pneumatic actuator position stops are not correctly adjusted.

Probably because there is no air pressure to the solenoid or dirt has jammed it. Also, debris might be trapped inside the valve. Or, the air pressure is not sufficient to operate the actuator. Remember: measure air pressure at the actuator, not at the compressor.

Maybe. First, be sure that the actuator torque output is sufficient to turn the valve reliably. Second, you will have to fabricate a custom mounting bracket and coupling to connect the actuator to the valve.

The valve will stop somewhere between full open and close. When power is reapplied to the original circuit, the actuator will complete the cycle.

To make the change just remove the actuator from the valve and turn it, or the valve stem, 90 degrees and remount the actuator.

Remove the actuator from the valve and check the valve stem. Most ball valves have stem flats at right angles to the flow when the valve is in the off position. On butterfly valves check the stem flow arrow marking.

No, a remote location is fine. Just make sure that the air pressure at the actuator is sufficient to power it. The air pressure at the actuator may be less than the pressure at the remote solenoid, be sure to check it.

Check the electric wiring schematic that came with the actuator for the correct hookup. Sometimes a copy is inside the actuator cover. If it is missing, don't guess about the connections. Call the manufacturer for a schematic.

The actuator is wired incorrectly (check the schematic accompanying the actuator), or the external control switch is not the correct type for the actuator.

Not unless you bought it with an optional speed control.

Actuators and solenoid valves require different types of electrical control switches. SPDT for actuators, SPST for solenoids. Check the actuator wiring schematic for the correct wiring and switch type.